Langkawi

I left Penang for Langkawi just in time as there was a huge thunderstorm that morning, not sure how long it went on for though. Penang had been really good but I was ok with leaving. 

I am not sure where I had heard about the island but it was always somewhere where I wanted to go.

The ride from the airport to Pantai Cenang wasn’t long, I saw lush vegetation, paddy fields and the usual tropical things, reminded me of Goa slightly.

Langkawi is an archipelago of 99 islands off Malaysia’s NW coast, the main island is the largest, it is also a few km from the Thai border and was developed as a tourist destination in the 1980’s. It is known as the ‘Jewel of Kedah’.

Historical records have noted Langkawi as far back as 14th century by the Ming Dynasty. In the 1820’s, the Siamese captured the island and took many islanders as slaves, but was recaptured in 1837. In 1909, the islands came under British rule but briefly controlled by Siam again during WWII. British ruled until Malayan Independence in 1957.

The then Prime Minister in 1986 started to develop the areas as a tourist destination and by 2012, it received over 3m tourists a year.

I had read that the area was quite touristy but I didn’t realise how much! The main road was lined with the usual tourist tat shops, all kinds of restaurants and bars but the thing that really surprised me was all the duty free shops, every second shop or so was one, piled high with M&M’s and Toblerone, perfumes and bags etc, the good thing was that they also sold alcohol!

I found it all rather strange but someone told me the island had no taxes and people travelled there specifically for shopping.

The status was granted in 1987 to boost tourism and means that the island is exempt from import duties and taxes on things like alcohol, perfumes and chocolate, like we see in all the airports!

The Grab driver explained that there is not much on the island, that it is mainly nature and water/beaches

The hostel, ‘Bed Attutide’ was nice and light, with plenty of communal space. It was the kind of hostel where you could not be shy, there was one toilet and shower area with individual cubicles etc, but everyone used them, my cotton dressing gown came in handy! It was amazingly clean though, I think the whole place was washed, mopped and swept down every couple of hours. There were a couple of managers/supervisors but all the other staff were volunteers who then were able to stay for free. Most were there for a couple of weeks at a time. I spoke to a couple who spent a year in South America that way. Not sure if it something that I would like to do, but maybe 40 years ago!

Like Penang, the weather was hot and sticky and the afternoon I arrived, there was a huge storm, but left an amazing sunset.

On Sunday, I decided to visit the cable car and sky walk as it was a clear day. It goes up the peak of Gunung Mat Chinchang. 

The site is enormous, it has been made into a full destination with shops and restaurants, landscaped with a lake and quite attractive gardens, it’s called the Oriental Village. The one thing I noticed was the constant piped music! Was so loud and plonky – I found it really odd, it was the same everywhere really, always music, loud and not really in fitting with the area – even the airport! Listen to this…

Opened in 2003, the total length is 2.2km. There are 3 stations/levels , with the top level at the peak, which is the second highest in Langkawi. When it was being built, all the structural components had to be lifted with helicopters and then assembled on site as there is no road!

It was very busy and loads of people milling around. Really amazing far reaching views of the island.

It was really hot and humid and I had had a wonderful salmon poke bowl for breakfast so I went in search of an ice cream – obviously! I found a shop called Cekguus Gula Apong Ice Cream, no idea what that was so I went in. It was bloody lovely!! Gula apong is a golden brown palm sugar, made from the sap of the nipah palm, originally from Sarawak. Had a very kulfi like taste but was great. I had a mango one which had bits of mango, some syrup, mango flavoured bubble thingies, and then cornflakes – you may laugh but the cornflakes added a lovely crunch.

I had adopted the laid back way and had lazy days but thought that I should at least go and check the beach out, where I was located was the quieter end of the strip and separate from the main beach. I wandered down and got all comfortable and went for a swim, very warm and slightly choppy. Came back out to dry off and the heavens opened and it tipped it down! So much for my afternoon at the beach!

I decided that I should see more of the island, I couldn’t come all this was and sit in the hostel all day, so I signed up for the mangrove tour to Kilim Geoforest Park, designated by UNESCO in 2007. It is a mangrove forest park of around 85km2. It has limestone caves and three interconnected river estuaries.

Got on the boat and the first stop was the bat cave, and it was exactly as it sounds – a creepy cave with creepy bats – not my scene at all to be honest. The stalactites and stalagmites were stunning, water kept dripping on my head and I had visions of bat poo in my hair………..Obviously it was of ecological and natural significance but I would have preferred not to have visited! 

We then went to a fish farm, yes, a fish farm. Built on a sort of pontoon, which I think was actually plastic barrels (really safe, right?) and obviously a tourist thing but the young chap told us about the fish they grow/raise/farmGrouper, sea bass and shellfish. And then offered to cook them for our lunch – seriously. 😂

The best part was being on a speed boat, actually that is not totally true but it was fun. We also went to see the largest group of native eagles – that was amazing

There were 19 of us from the hostel and it gave me a chance to speak to some of the other residents, they were from all over but mainly Europe and late teens/early 20’s. It is incredible how much travelling that they have already done, I thought that I had done loads but these ‘youngsters’ have done nearly every continent already!

I did enjoy Langkawi, but disappointed with how commercialised it was – not sure what I expected really. Pantang Cenai is beautiful but over run with water sports huts, engine noises and bars! Actually, for some that would be a perfect destination!

Left Langkawi for Penang overnight before leaving for Perth. Stayed at a hotel near the airport that was dry 🙈 I mean, only I could do that. They even had the direction of Mecca on the ceiling. Obviously I decided to go and fine somewhere to eat and drink, easy – lovely wine bar around the corner, took a Grab (Uber thingy), choose a bottle, prepped my book and then thought to check my purse and saw that I left my purse in the Grab 😳. I was in panic mode but the staff were fantastic and help me contact Grab and the driver came to the wine bar. I was ever so humbled, embarrassed and grateful all at the same time! I paid him for his lost fares and he was happy. Needless to say that I double check everything now, 3 or 4 times! My burger was delicious and I really appreciated it!

I am going to upload a load of pictures and videos now as I think that it is time to publish Langkawi. I have already been to Perth, Auckland, Melbourne and off to Hobart tomorrow so it’s about time I get on to my Australian adventures. I do have a ‘Karen’ post brewing in my head though, mobile phones 🤬.

Lucy (will introduce her in my Adelaide post) asked me the other day if I got home sick and truthfully I am not homesick, but I miss my boys and girls, my friends and possibly my privacy a little bit😁. I am not lonely, I am loving the freedom, the exploring of places and people and Neil Rossiter – I am relishing the simplicity of ‘JUST BEING’.

Signing off from my favourite wine bar in Melbourne (familiar subject matter?), dear readers…. No one has come back to me with a suggested greeting/sign off so taking a leaf from Lady Whistledown! I will think of something though.

Terimah Kasih and Salamat Tinggal from Malaysia.